Tuesday 2 February 2016

2 Weeks in Sabah, Borneo

Backpacking in Borneo feels like opening a Double Decker bar after a hard gym workout - a blissfully indulgent but hard earned treat.

For me, Sabah has been the gift that just keeps giving. All the grand experiences have been wonderful, but even in the daily goings-on I've learnt a great deal. Malaysia has a lot of sit-down loos, although I seem to have a knack for finding the remaining holes in the ground in desperate times. Unlike in India when I accidentally locked myself in to one and the school caretaker nearly performed an exorcism and Kenya where I lost my balance and plunged foot first straight down said hole, I seem to have finally mastered the art of not being completely incompetent in this division. Embrace the victories, right?

My wonderful hostel owners in KK made me feel like family, taking care of me when I staggered down the stairs after climbing and making sure I had enough to eat on long bus journeys. The scenery I just can't gush enough about. The mountains, jungle, rainforest, beaches, waterfalls, fruit, wildlife - I just can't get enough! I even took a 6 9 hour bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan to see more of it rather than a 40 minute flight, which was only slightly tainted by the looping soundtrack of farting, burping, spitting, and retching coming from across the aisle...

In my first week I explored the city, went to the beach, got lost in a night market, had a magnificent day at the Sabah Ethnology Museum, and climbed Mount Kinabalu. The infamous Gaya Sunday Market was sprawling with tourist trinkets and local foods, but for me the terrible conditions and treatment of animals for sale was far too negative to outweigh these. The regular night market is very tame, however, and is just crammed with locals, food, and clothes. Week 2 was also exciting, with 3 days in the jungle wildlife spotting, visiting the best orangutan sanctuary I've experienced, island hopping, and eating my way through the city again, including the Gaya Street Chinese New Year kick off festival! No such thing as too much dim sum. I also spent 2 weeks being chronically underdressed compared to the super snazzy holidaymakers from China and Korea, decked out in the most beautifully Pinterest outfits and heels with perfectly porcelain faces despite the 35 degree heat. That's talent, my friends.


Manutik Island, Kota Kinabalu




Due to being a perfectly Jurassic playground, a lot of things in Sabah are relatively expensive for backpackers. If I were to have more time in Borneo, or even 2 weeks again, I would definitely head down to Kuching to explore there, and head over to Semporna for the incredible diving! If I had more savings, I would head straight to the deepest, darkest, and truly untouched jungle of Malau Basin to climb the 7 storey waterfall (£2,000 for 5 days), immerse myself in wildlife in the equally untouched Danum Valley (£2,000 for 5 days), and head over to Turtle Island during hatching season (£250 for 2 days).

I'm already counting down the days until I can come back and explore this pure definition of wanderlust! 

Halfway up Mount Kinabalu at Laban Rata


My lesson from Sabah has been pretty general: copy the locals. Remembering not to use my left hand for eating or passing money took a while to click (left hand is considered dirty), and watching locals at the night market and ordering the same straight after them has helped a bit with the Foreigner Tax! Though I also learnt that the night market is to be visited in groups, as the fish and noodle portions are enough for 3 people minimum...! Foreigner Tax can't be avoided, however, at the attractions of Sabah - foreigners are charged usually around 6x local fees, which unfortunately makes some things like Mount Kinabalu and Turtle Island completely inaccessible to most backpackers who haven't fixed their trip around these, which is a shame. 

In terms of religious tolerance, Sabah is one of the most easy going mixes of Buddhist, Muslim and Christian I've come across. There seems to be a very respectful and almost liberal vibe in terms of clothing, in that if you're a Muslim woman you'll cover your head, but if you're not then you don't need to, aren't expected to, and won't be looked down upon for not doing so. Likewise with shorts and tops - completely fine for a foreign woman to wear, but expect a few giggles if you're toasted head to toe as a result (definitely not me, Mum...). 

I struggled slightly with public transport. Minivan busses only take off when full, which turns out to mean sitting in a baking tin for half an hour until a minimum of 16 people are crammed in to a 10 seater and often with somebody else's shopping/thigh/child on top of you, but it's a great way to see the backstreets. Definitely one for leisure rather than anything with a time pressure - I met a guy who took one to the airport trying to save a few pennies over a taxi, and ended up missing his flight! 


Boulder section of the Mount Kinabalu climb!


Another sticky issue (ew) has been the whole issue of bodily emissions. I'm not squeamish by any sense, but hearing a massive hock behind me instantly reminds me of that time I was cycling London to Cambridge and got a snot rocket to the forehead courtesy of the fella in front of me. Ooough. Likewise the free and easy attitude to coughing, farting, burping, squelching, spitting, and vomiting on my long haul busses was less than desirable, and far too immersive for me! 

The attention on the street is a tricky one for me. The vast majority of the time it's just children wanting to practise their English and they jump out so excitedly to shout "HELLO MEEEEEEHS!" before running away giggling. It's all lighthearted and sweet, and even getting into lengthy English grammar discussions with street sellers when I ask for mango juice in Malay is fine and really nice to be able to interact. The stares are also fine, because I know full well that I am effectively a walking neon sign of "DIFFERENT" - a ridiculously white, blonde, young girl walking alone around a city in the midday sun and attempting to speak shockingly poor Malay. I've found that almost all looks which could convey potential tension from local women can be turned happy with a smile, and it's always returned which is really lovely. With local men it's trickier, as a small awkward smile is often taken as an invitation to talk or be talked about and yet not smiling is taken as offensive sometimes. My solution has been to just keep walking, smile, and say "Hello!" in response but to leave it at that unless I wanted to talk. 

I was very carefully taught from an early age to consciously respect other cultures and being very aware of my position when travelling as a guest in somebody else's home. When I'm in a culture which requires certain things I'll abide by the rules, and I know I can't get on my soapbox because things aren't as they are at home because frankly I'm not at home, and I intend to explore. In that, I actively do my best to avoid causing offence or trouble, but sometimes that's a very real compromise of my own self-respect. When I was doing my washing at a street laundrette, a man swung by in his van and threw his gobstopper sweet straight at my butt. I was in baggy trousers and a large top so nope, that's not an excuse. Walking down the street to men saying "boom boom baby", "sexy lady, you like me", and "come home with me" is ignorable, and cars slowing down for men (haven't had this with women or children, as it was in Africa) to wave through the window is part of crossing the street. I don't feel comfortable, however, when men jump up from their seats to just block the pavement in front of me - no conversation, no smile, just standing in my path and staring. Or when I'm sitting to eat at the night market and a panel of men just sit opposite me, watching me eat an entire red snapper on my Larry. Or very personal photos when I've already said no. But, as I say, most interactions are friendly and happy, and I'm a lot safer and happier ignoring unwanted comments and things than if I were to take issue with them by myself late at night. Truly, for every slightly dodgy encounter there have been a hundred lovely and neutral ones! To be honest it's the same in any city, just in different forms, so really it's not a roadblock.

Travelling around as a solo female backpacker does include a fair amount of people taking advantage in Borneo, but it's not any worse than you might expect. For example, a taxi at night would likely cost 50% more than during the day, but if alone and female it'll cost at least double and has to be met, because walking around late at night is not a good option. Likewise, bartering at the markets has less impact. Although I take answering the question "Are you alone?" with "Yes, just me!" as a matter of independence and pride, I've noticed I get a lot less hassle, and lower prices, when I say "No, with my friends/boyfriend/family". A lot of both men and women have seemed very surprised and concerned when I say I'm travelling alone, a lot of sharp inhales and chuckles of "Brave...!". By day Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan are as safe as any city (with your head switched on) and early evening is fine too. Late evening not so comfortable, but that's my personal feeling. There aren't as many risks of street violence such as bag snatching and pick pocketing if you're careful with your things, but I'd advise strongly against getting a motorbike taxi. In my opinion, I've seen far too many women pulled off motorbikes for their handbags and bike accidents in general in my travels that I cannot honestly say that they are safe! 


Nailing it


I fell in love with Borneo when I flew over it, and really it's just grown and grown! Nothing can taint the sheer purity of the jungle, my awe at the scenery and the incredible privilege of seeing truly wild primates and other animals thriving in their natural habitat. Glorious.

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