Saturday 30 January 2016

How To Organise Climbing Mount Kinabalu

When I was trying to sort out my climb, I couldn't find anything recent on the Internet to help me along the way. So, just in case anyone else is in the same boat, I hope this helps a little!

Here is my post about the climb itself, in case you need any more inspiration to get your boots on and feed your soul some mountain air! 

The view from the registration office



Fitness

Some crazies climb Kinabalu as a race, whilst others take it as a hearty stroll. You don't need to be a gym junkie to climb Kinabalu, but the better fitness you have the easier and more enjoyable the experience will be. Nobody gets points for having to be carried down the mountain by the rescue squad, so at the very least do some training on staircases before you attempt the climb! You should at least be able to climb the equivalent of 12 staircases without stopping, but the mountain pace is slow and steady so you're not going to be bolting anywhere. It's a tiring and challenging course and as with a lot of physical things it's mainly about your attitude. 

A lot of people climb mount Kinabalu with no hiking experience at all. It's doable, but it'll be slow and hard and your legs will be jelly on the way down! That's not to put you off, it's just to give you a realistic view. If you have dodgy knees, the way down is likely to aggravate those bad boys more than a salt rub to sunburn, so be prepared with some supports or, in the footsteps of an Aussie I met on the way, have a crate waiting for you at the bottom!



There are 3 different options for climbing:

1. Same day up and down - only if you're doing a competition and your aim is the time. There's pressure to be at certain markers by certain times so you won't be able to absorb much of the scenery and topologies whilst you're there, and that's what really differentiates this climb IMO.z
2. 2D1N - this is the best option in my opinion, as it's long enough to be comfortable and rest without giving too much time to seize up and get sore.
3. 3D2N - this is the one they'll try to force upon you because it makes more money, but I don't see the added value myself.

Dense as loaf of rye bread


Booking

There are two methods here: book in advance, or turn up on the day.

Booking in advance is also split between going with a tour agency, in which everything will be taken care of for you but there will likely be a higher fee, or organise the whole thing yourself. Being an organised bunny may well save you a few pennies but could also drive you mental, with about 20 separate fees needing to be paid at different points along the way and organising return transport, which is a bit of a 'mare in Sabah, as well as chronic slowness and disorganisation at the gates which makes everything ever more frustrating.

Be aware: since the latest earthquakes in 2015, the maximum number of climbers per day has been reduced from 200 to 100. Further, those who missed their climb in September-December due to the quakes are being reallocated slots in January-March 2016, so spaces are even more limited.

However you book it, you must book the accommodation in advance. If you show up on the day without proof of accommodation, you won't be allowed to climb. 

I went with Amazing Borneo tours for 3 main reasons:

1. I was worried I'd miss out on climbing the mountain due to limited numbers and reallocations
2. There were so many individual costs laid out by Sutera I couldn't cope whilst trying to plan everything else on my for over Christmas 
3. They included lunch and hotel transfers, and their early bird rate saved me some money

Amazing Borneo handled everything from start to finish and also gave me a certificate (YAY) at the end. Also their guides are absolutely top notch, especially my much loved Joe! 

Boulders - my favourite!


Price

Fundamentally yes, it is very expensive to climb Mount Kinabalu. One company has full monopoly on the accommodation and, unless you do the one day option, you'll have to buy in to it. One night alone is around £210. It's absolutely and utterly huge, but that's what it is - you can't take a tent, so your option is fork out or fork off. I don't like that at all, but I can see where they're coming from: all food and everything must be carried up the mountain by individual porters every day, for whom I have the utmost respect, and to let people camp would be dangerous. Add on the various park fees, transport costs, and whatever else, and we're talking about £280. 

As ever, it's your call. This is the 2D1N pricing I had - Malaysians will pay about 1/6 of this price, and if you choose a different duration then the price will vary too. To a certain extent it's terribly pricey, but then there's the whole "it's their mountain" thing. I think it's a shame that the price makes the mountain quite enough exclusive to those who have the budget, or those who have worked their entire budget around it, and that the Tourist Tax is so high that it's actually turning many people away, rather than encouraging more to get more cash flowing around.

I even sat through a lengthy lecture from a South London dementor disguised as an obnoxious bearded man-child on the bus to Sandakan from Sepilok about how I had completely wasted my money and there was no way the mountain was worth it at all because, after all, "once you've climbed one mountain they're all the bloody same anyway, innit". Poster boy for open mindedness and respect for other people's decisions, ladles and jellyspoons. Or, as my wonderful Mad Irish Grannie would have said with pursed lips and a single eyebrow raised, "eejit". For me it was the best option as the climb was an absolute must for me, and I was not prepared to miss out. When I got to Laban Rata I actually met 3 guys who had done it individually and ended up paying far more than me because they needed to organise transport and all the other expenses! 



Above the clouds is a great place to be

Kit

Whatever you take you'll need to carry (unless you hire a porter to carry it for you) and it's an absolute case of necessity over luxury. 

Here's what I took:
Snacks: lots. Oat based cereal bars, high energy fruits, energy gels just in case, chocolate bars
Lunch: packed lunch provided by Amazing Borneo (sandwiches, fried chicken, apple, etc.)
Water: 1.5l bottle each way was fine 
Shoes: hiking boots. Trainers are ok, but boots are better.
Clothes: thick sports leggings, quick dry tank top, sports bra, 3 pairs of hiking socks (1000 mile socks are excellent anti-blister ones), long sleeve thermal top, thermal mid layer, light windbreaker jacket, ski jacket, hoodie for resting at Laban Rata
Other: woolly hat, head torch (hands free is essential in the morning!), gloves, phone, camera 

Optional extras: walking pole, windproof trousers, extra clothes in case one set gets wet, shower toiletries, scarf or buff (highly recommend, my lips nearly got blown off my face at the summit)

Chipmunk and a sunset


Good to know

Mount Kinabalu is traditionally considered sacred and is embedded in the culture of reincarnation in Sabah. Whilst not all Locals consider it the holder of spirits which some do, all treat it with great respect and you'll be expected to do the same. No getting naked, no swearing, no littering - basically just being considerate of the mountain and associated culture. Not too tricky.

The mountain is part of the great Kinabalu rainforest and jungle, and occasionally (around 20 times per year) it'll be impossible to summit due to rain making the ascent too dangerous. Given half the morning ascent is rope climbing up sheer rockfaces, you can see where that's coming from! 

There are lots of homestays around Kinabalu National Park - take a few days before your climb to explore the rainforest properly and get your flora and fauna eyes locked in!

There are buses from the Inaman bus terminal in KK which will drop you at the park on request - this is best if you're having a few days before the climb or just wandering the foothills, rather than if you need to make an early start for your climb!  

Regaining feeling in my fingers and singing Adele


Overall

Ultimately the experience will be what you bring to it. It is a very, very expensive thing to do on anyone's budget and it seems completely crazy, but if you want it enough to shell out the dollar then you're likely the kind of person who will come away from it thinking it was worth every single penny. If you're thinking "is mount Kinabalu worth the money" then I'd suggest reading how I did the climb, and if nothing there is your cup of tea then maybe it's not for you. I can't gush about it enough - it's been an absolute highlight of my trip and I will carry the memories forever!




Sunrise from just below Low's Peak - one of the best experiences I've ever had!

1 comment:

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