Melbourne Street Art

The art in Melbourne really made my day when wandering around - it's beautiful, fun, political, and public. I love this stuff, so here are a few of the hundreds of snaps I took of the street art in Melbourne:

Puppy Love at ENP

Those who knew me before this trip will know that I've got a general tolerance for dogs but I've never been a full on ERRRRRRMAGHERD-WOOSE-A-WOOD-WURL person. I like the idea of dogs and I've always been around them and know that they are inevitably part of my life, and I love the idea of snuggling and playing, but there's always so much shedding and grease and slobber and considerations and poo. Similar to my ideas on children.

The day before I arrived at ENP I refreshed my knowledge of the park, and had forgotten (somehow) that they also accommodate over 400 dogs! Much of their rescue efforts occurred during the terrible 2011 floods in Thailand - so many villages had to be evacuated of humans that they were forced to leave the dogs behind. The ENP team at the time took inflatable dinghys and rescued as many as they could take, bringing them home to the park for them to roam in big runs and receive the medical treatment and love so many of them desperately needed. More recently the ENP generosity and love itself is becoming abused, with owners who are fed up of their animals just dumping them at the gates of the park.Thailand has a terrible reputation for dog cruelty just because they are not highly regarded at all. Much like in England we look at rats and don't think twice about putting down pest poison for them, so too are dogs widely considered in Thailand. I'm not going to preach about the pros and cons of cultural relativity with regard to the respect awarded to and placing of different animals in different societies (although I would love to do research on that), so let's just settle on the fact that for some of the dogs Thailand doesn't want, ENP provides a home with the hope that the dogs will find their forever homes with adoptive families throughout the world.

Return to Thailand: Not So Settling in Chiang Mai

Oigch. That was a Grr of an arrival. Miscommunications with the hostel resulted in my totally confirmed and definitely going to be there shuttle definitely not being there and me being totally shattered and drained after an emotional goodbye with my super awesome travel partner and boyfriend in Cambodia having to figure out how to get from A to B. I hadn't planned anything because my shuttle had been totally confirmed. It was dark, I was tired, I had no plans, and I'm scared of the dark when I'm in a new foreign place and I have no plans.

I booked an 8.0 hostel, but as soon as I laid down on my bed I knew it was going to be a terrible night. I was exhausted, it was too late to change hostel, and so I laid on my back on a mattress which appeared to genuinely be a wooden palette wrapped in styrofoam with a sheet on top. 8.0? GTFO. At 3am I was on the brink of tears as the exhaustion and frustration and pain all came to a head: I had chosen as good a place as I could, and it was still mightily shit. I climbed down from my bunk and laid on the decidedly more comfortable floor, finally drifting off to sleep. 

This is one of the best pieces of art I've ever seen, I love it

The next day I fell into my classic pattern of solo travelling: fill all the time and space which has recently been filled by companions with stuff. 11 hours of walking every street in Chiang Mai old city, exploring every temple and every market stall possible, and I was absolutely wiped out. So much so that my face genuinely caused the receptionist to ask if I was okay and whether I needed help. 

Beautifully colourful art in the markets

Fun fact: Chiang Mai is home to a lot of female-only prisons, and the city has a huge variety of prisoner-run community outreach and integration programmes including cafes, massage, restaurants, and shops. Pretty cool. 

Strange fact: walking through Chiang Mai on Valentine's Day meant I accidentally walked through a match-making festival! Couples came to be told whether they were compatible enough for a successful marriage and singletons came from all over to be blessed for better luck in love. Interesting stuff.

Shopping for love in a temple car park

That night I stole an empty low bunk in the dorm which had an actual mattress and as I sank into it I let it all wash over me. I had had a great time exploring the temples and markets, I had loved seeing the artwork paving the streets, but I was just exhausted. I couldn't wait for the prospect of staying in one place for 2 weeks. Putting my bag down and leaving it there for 2 whole weeks! Unpacking my things and not rushing to re-pack them all for the next day, taking my trainers out and not instantly reshuffling my boots to fill their gap... Most of all, I was so looking forward to seeing the same people for an entire block of time. Hostels are great for socialising and meeting new people, but everybody is on their own path and all you do in most situations is to cross paths as you both continue your trajectories. You might be in the bunk below a potential best friend, but if you're sick or tired that night and you don't feel like striking up conversation to find out, then that's the opportunity gone. To be in the same place with the same people doing the same project for the same fundamental reason: now that was a great thing to look forward to! 

Chiang Mai: where the streets are paved with art

Bring it on, Elephant Nature Park. 

Getting into the elephant mood

My favourite butterfly from Borneo

Finally had technology to begin getting my photos from my proper camera to my cloud so I can access my nicer photos!

Two Weeks in Cambodia - The one where I'm not a Larry!!

As with all of my countries, I had a hit list of what I wanted to do in Cambodia (Angkor Wat and genocide learning) and the rest was all up for grabs. The second week was fixed, as my partner in crime was flying out for a super awesome week in Siem Reap full of temples and celebrations and hanging out by pools together, so that left me with the first week of February to kick around in Cambodia by myself.

First up was a 7 hour bus trip to Phnom Penh filled, as ever, with the blended harmonies of Cambodian Karaoke on the TV, a man hocking and spitting to the left of me, and a woman violently vomiting to the right. Delightful. Spent the first hour becoming Kirstie the mozzie slayer, ruthlessly Jackie Chan catching and crushing mozzies with my bare hands like my brother-in-law taught me. Life skills. 

Fun fact: the dengue carrying mosquitoes are quite easy to see, as their backs have white stripes. Handy. 

Gross fact: when you kill a mosquito which has just fed, you get a smear of blood everywhere which is probably not yours. Nazz.

Whilst a night bus would be economically ideal (save a night of accommodation and half a day of exploration time!), the reputation for night buses is truly atrocious. Accidents are often not recorded, being chalked up to 'hitting a fallen log' or 'pot holes', security is terrible with reports of random extra passengers being allowed on to sit in foot wells and pathways so the drivers can get more money, and there have been numerous horror stories of sexual harassment and molestations with solo female backpackers. All in all, then, that'd be a hell to the no.

Freebies!

I looked so awful returning from a beach jog that the hostel receptionist grabbed me by the elbow and rushed me to the bar for a free beer! I'll drink to that!

Amok!

A traditional Khmer dish, amok is a light but filling curry with a hearty kick! This beauty was a chicken version served in a coconut husk with sticky rice and a beautiful view of the riverside. 

Lush.

2 Weeks in Sabah, Borneo

Backpacking in Borneo feels like opening a Double Decker bar after a hard gym workout - a blissfully indulgent but hard earned treat.

For me, Sabah has been the gift that just keeps giving. All the grand experiences have been wonderful, but even in the daily goings-on I've learnt a great deal. Malaysia has a lot of sit-down loos, although I seem to have a knack for finding the remaining holes in the ground in desperate times. Unlike in India when I accidentally locked myself in to one and the school caretaker nearly performed an exorcism and Kenya where I lost my balance and plunged foot first straight down said hole, I seem to have finally mastered the art of not being completely incompetent in this division. Embrace the victories, right?

My wonderful hostel owners in KK made me feel like family, taking care of me when I staggered down the stairs after climbing and making sure I had enough to eat on long bus journeys. The scenery I just can't gush enough about. The mountains, jungle, rainforest, beaches, waterfalls, fruit, wildlife - I just can't get enough! I even took a 6 9 hour bus from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan to see more of it rather than a 40 minute flight, which was only slightly tainted by the looping soundtrack of farting, burping, spitting, and retching coming from across the aisle...

In my first week I explored the city, went to the beach, got lost in a night market, had a magnificent day at the Sabah Ethnology Museum, and climbed Mount Kinabalu. The infamous Gaya Sunday Market was sprawling with tourist trinkets and local foods, but for me the terrible conditions and treatment of animals for sale was far too negative to outweigh these. The regular night market is very tame, however, and is just crammed with locals, food, and clothes. Week 2 was also exciting, with 3 days in the jungle wildlife spotting, visiting the best orangutan sanctuary I've experienced, island hopping, and eating my way through the city again, including the Gaya Street Chinese New Year kick off festival! No such thing as too much dim sum. I also spent 2 weeks being chronically underdressed compared to the super snazzy holidaymakers from China and Korea, decked out in the most beautifully Pinterest outfits and heels with perfectly porcelain faces despite the 35 degree heat. That's talent, my friends.

Manutik Island, Kota Kinabalu

Mowgli Time! The Kinabatangan River and Jungle

Brace yourself, I'm very excited. Almost as excited as I was when I Skyped Tom to tell him I was going offline for a few days because I was going to the JUNGLE! I said Lara Croft, he said Eliza Thornberry, we settled on a Dora the Explorer/The Magic Schoolbus crossover. I think I lost out there. 

After an 8 hour bus from KK to Sandakan and a night there to refresh, I was picked up in Sandakan by a minivan and whisked away to the Kinbatangan river within 3 hours, stopping to pick up other people along the way and bumping our way along the last few "roads" to the crossing point. We got into a boat and hopped over to the other side of the river, climbed a plank and plunged straight into the jungle at the Nature Resort Kinbatangan! 

Loving life in the second row

The resort is absolutely glorious. A row of wood cabins lined the path to the reception centre, secluded from each other by free growing jungle and the occasional monitor lizard. The first thing that struck me was the pure quiet of it all - no phones tapping, no Whatsapp buzzes, nothing. The second thing was how noisy it all was, but gloriously so! Dragonflies buzzing, birds calling, cicadas making smoke with their back legs - so much noise which I never normally hear, and it was lush. After checking in and an ice cold glass of rose cordial I skipped off to my dorm with 3 of my bus pals, delighted to find comfy beds and a bug screen across the window - I like nature, but not enough to cuddle up to a bazillion mozzies every night.

Focus

Pub Street, Siem Reap 

Sometimes a shot just comes for you - I was waiting for my totally nutritious chocolate and banana pancake to be made when I got this!

#theyseemerollin

Cheeky Macaque

Caught this cheeky little macaque scampering up a tree on the Kinabatangan River! Beautiful guy and such a brilliant jungle trip. Post coming soon!

Hanger is real

We all have those days where you just have to put your foot on the basket and take all the food 😊

Sunset at Laban Rata

On top of the world!

Today I summited the 20th most prominent mountain in the world! Certainly the most challenging physical experience I have had to date, and such a completely spectacular mountain I am so grateful it'll be with me forever. 

Waddling in 8 tops and blown over by the wind twice, but it's a great thing to have your head above the clouds!

Mountain Sunrise

Sunrise over the glorious summit Mount Kinabalu this morning! Morning trek started at 0230 and we hit the sunrise bang on - this one is whilst coming back down to regain some feeling in my fingers! 

Arriving in Koh Chang

No filter, just lush.

January 13, 2016

Bangkok street food - a lasting love!

Most people cover Bangkok within 1-3 days before escaping to other areas of Thailand. I stayed for a whole week and, apart from my love for all the Wats, it was down to the food. Thai food is completely different to anything I've ever had before, essentially mastering the art of taking a very healthy dish, deep frying it, and creating a heavenly bundle of light tasting deliciousnessosity. Here are some of my highlights! 

My first dish in Thailand was from a magnificent street market in Siam Square. Deep fried chicken and veg on sweet toast opened the door to an absolute winner winner of a chicken dinner. I also cracked open my first ever fresh coconut and, whilst impressive and idyllic, it turns out that I don't like coconut milk. Regardless, the look of them can't be faulted!

LOOK AT THAT BOWL OF CHILLI SAUCE. MY EYES ARE BURNING FROM HERE.

Impulsive Fishing!

Today's impulse decision: night fishing trip with a load of Thai fishermen off the coast of Koh Chang! 5 yellow bait fish and a barracuda later and I am very happy with my first ever fishing trip!

Post is coming - I promise!

January 11, 2016 at 12:56AM

Find the Face(s)!

Touch of Dali in this shot at the UNESCO World Heritage site in Ayutthaya! How many faces can you find in the rubble?

January 09, 2016 at 12:28AM