Night Train Chiang Mai to Bangkok

When I was figuring out how to get from one end of Thailand to the other I couldn't find any recent info, so here's a 2016 reference for anybody else searching for how to get from Chiang Mai to Bangkok overnight. 

I have loads of photos to illustrate this, but they've gone walkabout... Bear with for a month and they'll be up to help!

The station is located about an hour's walk out of the city centre. I would not recommend walking this journey with 25kgs of backpacks in 38 degrees and blazing sunshine, unless you are looking to rock the look of the lobster just pulled out of the boiling pan. If you do walk it, download the map when you have wifi at some point before you set off so you can check street names without using any data, otherwise you may follow my footsteps and get to know the other side of Chiang Mai very well... However you get there, get there in good time to collect your tickets from the hotel opposite the station and then head straight to the cafe just outside the station - they do a legendary banana split with comes with with toppings including happiness, dreams, and world peace.

Bangkok as a Solo Female Backpacker

Number one rule: always smile

I found Bangkok very easy, safe, and navigable as a solo female backpacker. It's definitely on the lower scale of solo males / females having very different experiences as it's a popular destination and backpackers are common! 

The main warning is to always guard your drink, and watch it being poured. There are so many cases of drink spiking with all sorts of things so you need to be vigilant but it won't change your behaviour much. As always, handbags are an easy target so a secret money belt for your passport and a bag you can always keep a hand on are your best bets. 

It can be intimidating walking Bangkok alone at any time, as there will be endless shouts of "lady where you going?!" from Tuk Tuk drivers along the way. Whilst I personally didn't use tuktuks often as they are more expensive and less reliable than taxis, the drivers were always friendly and helpful when I pointed at my map and asked how I could walk there. They'll always try to get you to take the ride, but just stick to your legs if that's how you want to go and be assertive with a smile!

Escape from Bangkok

After a glorious week running around Bangkok, even I had to grab a map and see where I could escape to. Most people head north towards Chiang Mai and Chang Rai PDQ after Bangkok for the cooler temperatures, slower pace of life, and more local feel in general. Given I'm heading that way at the end of February for my pitifully planned dates but super awesome elephant conservation project, I decided to look around the south. I considered Phuket and the glorious tales of island hopping around the southern prong of Thailand, but for me that's something I'd like to do with pals/partner/suitcase rather than on my Larry. So the eastern seaboard it was then and, with the idea of a beach and some jungle in mind, I was searching off the coast. Koh Samui is a very popular island, but when I looked at Koh Chang it was like finding an extra love heart in the corner of a seemingly empty Haribo packet. Lush!

Backpacking Bangkok - treats, traps and tips!

Thailand offers an incredible combination of good quality and exceptional prices, making it a wonderful playground for an explorer on a budget or a top dog seeking luxury. Here are some of my lessons from Bangkok!

Treats

Thais love their food spicy, fried, and/or very sweet! Bland and meek have no place here, and vegetarians will learn to shout "NO MEAT!" when a hand is hovering over the chicken. Tofu is also available, but the carnivorous amongst us will be loving life in Bangkok. 

Street food will invariably beat restaurant food on taste, price, and authenticity. Meat on a stick beats meat on a plate, hands down! Head to Khao San Road around 3pm to hit the majority of street food stalls offering various dishes for 30-60 baht, and then pick an alleyway the the connecting warren of streets surrounding it to get more adventurous tastes.

One Week in Bangkok

Resisting the temptation to belt out Pet Shop Boys whenever I hear "one [X] in Bangkok" has been strenuous. AND THE WORLD'S YOUR OYSTER! There, it's done, it's out. 

Many people do Bangkok in 1-3 days, but I stayed for a whole week! Here's what I got up to:

Day 1: Exploring street food and markets in Siam Square

Having landed after 24 hours of travelling, food was of course the first thing on my mind! Cue a trip to the Siam Square Happy Street festival full of food and clothes!

 

No filter, just lush.

January 13, 2016

Bangkok street food - a lasting love!

Most people cover Bangkok within 1-3 days before escaping to other areas of Thailand. I stayed for a whole week and, apart from my love for all the Wats, it was down to the food. Thai food is completely different to anything I've ever had before, essentially mastering the art of taking a very healthy dish, deep frying it, and creating a heavenly bundle of light tasting deliciousnessosity. Here are some of my highlights! 

My first dish in Thailand was from a magnificent street market in Siam Square. Deep fried chicken and veg on sweet toast opened the door to an absolute winner winner of a chicken dinner. I also cracked open my first ever fresh coconut and, whilst impressive and idyllic, it turns out that I don't like coconut milk. Regardless, the look of them can't be faulted!

LOOK AT THAT BOWL OF CHILLI SAUCE. MY EYES ARE BURNING FROM HERE.

Jade's House, Bangkok - Hostel Review

A simple but comfortable hostel in the heart of Bangkok - ideal for those wanting to explore Khao San area without having to stay on Khao San Road itself.

Location 5/5
Just great. 5 mins walk from Khao San Road and the major attractions up there, 15 mins walk to Dusit Palace, 30 mins walk to Wat Pho and the Grand Palace or a taxi for 60-80 baht on the meter. Lots of great street food around as well as chilled out bars and excellent restaurants too! Also next door to Peterpans (travel agency) which arrange excellent tours or transport and pick up/drop off just next door. Ideal. Bar and restaurant just underneath which is great for a "get to know you" Chang, and isn't loud into the night.

Panda Hostel, Bangkok - Hostel Review

I found the Panda Hostel on booking.com when I wanted to move closer to Khaosan district for the Wats (temples) and to try a different area to Siam Square. Whilst booking.com rates it as "8.2 excellent", I had a very different experience...

Location 5/5
Undeniably fab. 5 mins walk from Khao San Road so you get all the fun and also get to leave! Lots of hostels next door for more socialising on the patio area, lots of chill bars and massage and laundry places close by, and a 7eleven and multiple ATMs 50m away. All the taxi drivers know the road and there are lots of busses too if you fancy going local. Taxi from Wat Pho to Panda Hostel will cost around 60-80 baht and takes 10-15 mins, bus is much cheaper but slightly longer, and a Tuk Tuk won't go for under 150 baht.

Lub-D Siam Square - Hostel Review

Lub-D is an excellent transition hostel if you're coming from the airport with the aim to explore KhaoSan area later on, or a great place to stay if you want to be out of backpacker central but still with excellent access to the goodies.

Location 4/5
Directly next to the SkyWalk for the SkyTrain to get you absolutely anywhere in Bangkok! Perfect. Also in the heart of the shopping district (Siam Square) for all you glampackers, and a beautifully calm and quiet area to decompress after a long flight before throwing yourself into Bangkok life. Massage 5 mins walk away, Khao San road 45 mins walk or 10-15 mins taxi (around 80-100 Baht on the meter), and Wat Pho around the same. Jim Thompson house just behind the hostel and Erawan Shrine is just a simple walk away! 7Eleven exactly next door solves all your midnight muchies and forgotten possessions.

Impulsive Fishing!

Today's impulse decision: night fishing trip with a load of Thai fishermen off the coast of Koh Chang! 5 yellow bait fish and a barracuda later and I am very happy with my first ever fishing trip!

Post is coming - I promise!

January 11, 2016 at 12:56AM

Find the Face(s)!

Touch of Dali in this shot at the UNESCO World Heritage site in Ayutthaya! How many faces can you find in the rubble?

January 09, 2016 at 12:28AM

Ayutthaya Day Trip From Bangkok - Architectural Paradise!

7am and I'm waiting for the minibus to pick me up and whisk me off to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, boasting some of the oldest Siam temples. Ayutthaya was the second of four capitals of Thailand, with the capital moving when wars were won and lost or environmental changes made the current location unsustainable. It's the architectural capital of Thailand and most famously hosts the beautiful Buddha in the Tree, and the original reclining Buddha temple.

There are so many ways to do Ayutthaya for all levels of comfort, budget, and interest! 

Getting there 

If you're on a budget then you can get to Ayutthaya on the train for 20 baht (less than 50p) which is awesome. This would definitely come under the "experience" bracket though, as that ticket is for a 3rd class, non air-conditioned carriage and no guaranteed seat for 2.5 hours. Upwards of this, there are more comfortable options on the train, public busses, and minivans which leave central city locations frequently and for under 550 baht (around 11 GBP). The alternative is to book through a travel agency locally or online, which is usually a bit more expensive but there's some sense of organisation. All have their pros and cons - train is the most scenically pleasing and cheapest option for shoestring travellers, but having a guide for the temples and an organised day plan may be more suitable for a backpacking treat.

Buddha's Head in a Tree - Ayutthaya

After years of war left Thais in Ayutthaya in bad places, some took to beheading images of the Buddha to sell on for money. Story goes that the authorities caught one person in the act and they placed the head on the ground where it was left for many years. Over this time a tree grew around the head, which is taken by many Buddhists as a symbol of the symbiotic relationship between Buddhists and nature. As the Buddha supports nature in His teachings, the tree supports the Buddha and now the local community too.

January 08, 2016 at 06:29PM

When someone says "just work with what you've got"

Ayutthaya, the architectural prototype and second capital city of Thailand (Bangkok being the fourth!). Some of the most famous images of Thailand are of several Buddha images in a row, usually painted gold and sitting or standing complete. Here in Ayutthaya we have the same imagery, but the Buddha images are of stone and almost all are damaged if not destroyed.

January 08, 2016 at 06:12PM

Wat Pho

Cooking With Pon! Green Garden (Hot Pot) Cooking School, Bangkok

How do you like your chillies in the morning?

Thai cooking courses are rated as some of the best experiences you can get whilst exploring Thailand, and something not to be missed if you're a foodie or a host. I did a lot of research into different cooking courses and, in my opinion, it doesn't get much better than Green Garden (previously known as Hot Pot) Cooking School! A lot of schools recommended widely cost the same or more, but only offer 3-4 dishes - today I cooked and ate 10 over 5 hours and loved every second of it!

I turned up at 8.50 for a 9.00 start and was picked up by my teacher Pon on a Tuk Tuk and taken straight to the market to get fresh ingredients for cooking! I was joined by another girl from Bangladesh and we moved through the market as Pon described all the different foods and what they're used for in Thai cooking, what they go with, and how they're different to foods we knew - for example, Thai eggplant looks like a courgette rather than the purple lightbulb I'm used to! Fresh food markets in Bangkok run from 0400 - 0930ish and then they're changed over to thing stalls or cooked food stalls. Very surreal to see the end of Khao San Road full of lettuce and eggs rather than fisherman trousers and hair braids! 

Bossing the groceries 

Flowers at Wat Pho

January 07, 2016 at 07:21PM

Cooking at Green Garden today!

Making the magic happen in my Thai cooking course today!

January 07, 2016 at 06:05PM

First days travelling Bangkok solo

It's like going to a sweetie shop on your birthday as a young child and being told you may have whatever you fancy - a weird combination of ballsy confidence whilst also being almost intimidated by the freedom. There is so much to do and to see but where to start?! 

For me, it's been a series of challenges that have hit faster than the Golden Ball stage of Takeshi's Castle, and I'm not an Imperial Guard.

Travelling solo for me is a tricky balance between independence vs loneliness. Hostels are great for meeting people, but that's a tricky step to take for me at least. I'm not a person to bust into a group of people and just have to open with "Hello!" followed by the travel equivalent of Fresher's Week pleaseconversewithmequiz: 

• Where are you from? Swap with fun fact which is invariably "Oh cool! I went to/really want to go to [their country]!"
• What's your name? Swap and nod awkwardly
• How long have you been in [current location]? Swap, invariably followed by more nodding