Focus

Pub Street, Siem Reap 

Sometimes a shot just comes for you - I was waiting for my totally nutritious chocolate and banana pancake to be made when I got this!

#theyseemerollin

Headhunting and House Building - Exploring Sabah Museum!

I have a very established love/hate relationship with museums. I know I should think "WOO YAY knowledge and learning and new stuff!" but I invariably think "oigh, blurry plaques and looking at 8 million identical ceramic plates, thrillsville...". In what seems to be becoming a regular event now, Sabah Museum turned my expectations upside down by being an interactive version of the Discovery Channel, and my memories of The Magic Schoolbus came rushing forwards! 

Having held my map the correct way and followed to the spot the museum allegedly stood, I landed in the middle of a patch of deserted rainforest, having left all cars, road signs, and recognisable paths far behind. I climbed for 15 minutes, past an abandoned ticket booth with smashed windows and no signs of human life in sight, genuinely wondering if I had accidentally strolled into the set for the next Jurassic Park.

Not creepy at all...

When I reached the top, I emerged from a dense bush of sticky fern leaves to see, very clearly, the entrance gate standing approximately 200m to my left and on the opposite side of the buildings. For all my excellent map handling skills, I had come from the back.

Brushing myself off and regaining sweaty, sweaty composure, I got my entrance ticket and wifi code (?!) to use with their interactive QR codes on different exhibits, and I skipped through the sweeping doors into the beautifully chilly museum. Instantly hit with "NO PHOTO" signs my heart sank a little because it already looked so cool, but actually I think it was a great thing as it made me really pay attention and learn about what I was seeing, in order to describe it properly. So brace for geeky excitement, because it was awesome. 

As in all great educational love stories, it starts with a bloody massive whale skeleton. Bryde's whale, to be exact, and it was huge.

Coral and Coconuts: Beach Hunting and Island Hopping in Kota Kinabalu

Before you even think about island hopping from KK, make sure you check out the divinely deserted Tanjung Aru beach is a long stretch located on the West side of the city. Gorgeously shady park and water which can genuinely be described as hot, Tanjung Aru is a lovely mainland alternative to jumping on a ferry. The downside to this beautifully quiet beach is that there are no food or drink sellers, so make sure you grab some food on the way. You'll want the number 16 bus from Marina Court if you're going local, and the fare is 5RM. If your visit is like mine, you'll only be sharing the beach with crabs and monitor lizards!

U wot m8

If you're determined to leave the mainland, Kota Kinabalu has a group of 5 islands within a 15 minute ferry ride from Jessleton Point, which is 15 mins walk from the Centre Point Mall. First up is the ticket hall, in which 10 desks of tour agencies flog exactly the same tours at exactly the same prices! Some of these touts can get quite aggressive though, so just move along to the next one if you don't like the treatment. This is definitely one of those times where you haggle even though the price is written down. Touts end up adding on all sorts of "marine taxes" which are absolute pocket padders so argue it heartily! A 2 island trip should cost you 30RM at the desk, and then 10RM at the first island as "conservation tax" - if you're hopping, keep hold of the receipt for this one otherwise you'll be paying it at every island! 

Sea View Sandakan - Hostel Review

Great food, nice staff, but that's it. Rough but well meaning, this hostel is basic but does the job. For 20MR per night it makes for a good quick stop between activities - I stayed here for 1 night when I took the bus from KK to Sandakan. 

Location 4/5

Good, right on the seafront and between the local Central Market with food courts and the Harbour Mall with clothes, pharmacies, etc.

PODs Backpackers - Hostel Review

A small, quiet hostel in a great location. 35RM per night and lots of freebies available in the fridge and cupboards! 

Location 5/5

Great, on the main road by the seafront and next to the Centre Point mall. 2 mins walk from the huge food night market, and just 5 mins from the clothing night markets. Right next to the local bus hub and opposite the waterfront bars and decking. Very convenient for everything in the city!

How To Organise Climbing Mount Kinabalu

When I was trying to sort out my climb, I couldn't find anything recent on the Internet to help me along the way. So, just in case anyone else is in the same boat, I hope this helps a little!

Here is my post about the climb itself, in case you need any more inspiration to get your boots on and feed your soul some mountain air! 

The view from the registration office

Fitness

Some crazies climb Kinabalu as a race, whilst others take it as a hearty stroll. You don't need to be a gym junkie to climb Kinabalu, but the better fitness you have the easier and more enjoyable the experience will be. Nobody gets points for having to be carried down the mountain by the rescue squad, so at the very least do some training on staircases before you attempt the climb! You should at least be able to climb the equivalent of 12 staircases without stopping, but the mountain pace is slow and steady so you're not going to be bolting anywhere. It's a tiring and challenging course and as with a lot of physical things it's mainly about your attitude. 

A lot of people climb mount Kinabalu with no hiking experience at all. It's doable, but it'll be slow and hard and your legs will be jelly on the way down! That's not to put you off, it's just to give you a realistic view. If you have dodgy knees, the way down is likely to aggravate those bad boys more than a salt rub to sunburn, so be prepared with some supports or, in the footsteps of an Aussie I met on the way, have a crate waiting for you at the bottom!

Cheeky Macaque

Caught this cheeky little macaque scampering up a tree on the Kinabatangan River! Beautiful guy and such a brilliant jungle trip. Post coming soon!

Hanger is real

We all have those days where you just have to put your foot on the basket and take all the food 😊

Sunset at Laban Rata

Climbing Mount Kinabalu

Intense and awe inspiring, Mount Kinabalu is the 20th most prominent mountain in the world and the most exciting, challenging, and humbling experience I have ever had. 

Day One

6am

Nailed it. Bag is 50% clothing, 50% snacks. All over this.

More likely to lose a foot to diabetes than hypothermia on this one

Just about to leave my hostel when the head chef calls me back and asks where I'm going. In his soft, old grandpa voice he speaks slowly:

"Ooooh. The mountain... You know people died in June? ... Nobody saw the quake coming... 7am, just after the sunrise... Schoolchildren, you know? ... No warning... Nature can be cruel..." And then, with a Professor Trelawney type snap of voice he said:

"Do not leave your guide, Miss Kirsten. Never leave your guide. Stick to him, and don't leave him."

My van horn beeped outside and I bid Hostel Grandpa adieu, thanking him for his advice and simultaneously trying to shake it off.

Knee Deep and Not Breathing

One of the key things about taking good photographs is patience. Waiting to set up the photo, waiting for all the elements to be in the right light or position, and then waiting for the subject to actually do something.

Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of patience. (I can see my Mum's eyebrows raised and lips pursed in the classic "Mmmhm, good one Sherlock")

So when I went to the amazing Sabah Heritage Village and saw a gorgeous red dragonfly/pretty thing, I knew it would make for a lovely photo. If only (shuffle to the left)... I could get it (crouch down) ... Right. 

Wrong focus. 

Angle too wide.

No focus at all.

Too far away.

Zoom too grainy.

Too shaky.

Dammit, Pedro - get your shit together! 

I gave it another go. Crouching down, leaning forwards, looking straight at the screen, so zoomed in that if I looked away I'd lose the beauty entirely. Small, shuffling steps. Keeping red in view. Small, shuffling steps. Keeping red in view. Small... shuffling... WHOOOMP!

Lights, Camera, Kiwi?

I'm not sure why, but there must be about a hundred phones with photos of me on them now.

In Sabah the teenage girls were pretty good at the sneaky over-the-shoulder pretend selfie or the outright "Stop. Stand." techniques. The most amusing one to date has been a woman yesterday at the beach taking a photo of me and being so surprised when the shutter sound went off at full volume that she jumped back, straight into the path of a huge monitor lizard! Phone went one way, she went the other, and I laughed my recently photographed are right off. The teenage boys tend to go on the charm offensive, generally striding up to me and saying "Beauuuuutiful lady, can we get a photo?" - a generally better tactic, as a face wipe has been the closest I've got to makeup for 3 weeks and I'm desperately hoping the freckles might join up into a tan one day.

Having just got off the bus from KK I headed straight for the Sandakan harbour for some fruit and fresh air. No sooner had I sat down and cracked into my snacks, I caught two teenage girls taking my photo mid-kiwi and when they realised and decided to pose for photos next to me! I asked them why it was good to have a photo and they just said "Hello! We are from the Philippines!" and giggled away again. So I tucked back into my kiwi and before I knew it a boy sat next to me, took a selfie with me bemused and still with bloody kiwi next to my face, and ran off!

I got this a lot in India as the old "show and tell" back in the village because white travellers weren't too common in those parts... But then it turned out that I was apparently the girlfriend of 5 different guys in the same village, with our photos plastered all over their Facebook profiles! 

If someone in Malaysia fancies giving me a modelling contract then hit me up: I've got the 6-hours-on-a-bus and nothing-but-fried-for-days looks nailed. It's a niche market, but somebody has to boss it. 

On top of the world!

Today I summited the 20th most prominent mountain in the world! Certainly the most challenging physical experience I have had to date, and such a completely spectacular mountain I am so grateful it'll be with me forever. 

Waddling in 8 tops and blown over by the wind twice, but it's a great thing to have your head above the clouds!

Mountain Sunrise

Sunrise over the glorious summit Mount Kinabalu this morning! Morning trek started at 0230 and we hit the sunrise bang on - this one is whilst coming back down to regain some feeling in my fingers! 

"Your thighs look strong. Beefy. You'll be fine"

Beefy.

Reassuring words from my hostel owner this evening as I'm packing my clothes into my day sack ready to climb Mount Kinabalu tomorrow! I am so excited and I just can't hide it so I ate a lot of carbs and called it legit preparation, which definitely negated my breathlessness at the top of the stairs to my dorm.

I was intending to turn up and climb on the day when I originally planned to do Mt Kinabalu, but the late 2015 earthquake meant the mountain had to be closed for 3 months and only reopened a few weeks ago. Because of the damage to the trails, now only 100 people are allowed up each day (previously 200), and people who missed their climb due to the closure have been reallocated dates this month. I didn't want to miss climbing at all as this is one of the absolute highlights of my trip, so I ended up booking through Amazing Borneo Tours to guarantee my climb. I'll review how it went once I've done it!

I love mountain climbing and Borneo is my ultimate adventureland, so the combination is just divine. My Dad also climbed Mt Kinabalu back in the day, so I feel even more excited to be able to bring the same experience into my life and share something so incredible in a now-and-then kind of way.

Arriving in Kota Kinabalu

KK is a very cool city, and it knows it. Hard Rock Cafe, ads for Malaysia Total Wipeout, very modern architecture, waterfront bars, top spec malls, the lot - so why does it feel a bit dull? There's so much to do in Sanah, but it's main city is very much a passing point rather than a POI of itself. Most tours start in KK, there's awesome diving, island hopping, and water sports to be done just off the coast of KK, and of course there is the incredible Kinabalu National Park just 2 hours drive away. But none of that is KK. The main attraction in KK itself is definitely the central night market - a mile long stretch of fish literally just hauled out of the sea on the other side of the tents, being cooked however you fancy!

Central and night market

Bangkok as a Solo Female Backpacker

Number one rule: always smile

I found Bangkok very easy, safe, and navigable as a solo female backpacker. It's definitely on the lower scale of solo males / females having very different experiences as it's a popular destination and backpackers are common! 

The main warning is to always guard your drink, and watch it being poured. There are so many cases of drink spiking with all sorts of things so you need to be vigilant but it won't change your behaviour much. As always, handbags are an easy target so a secret money belt for your passport and a bag you can always keep a hand on are your best bets. 

It can be intimidating walking Bangkok alone at any time, as there will be endless shouts of "lady where you going?!" from Tuk Tuk drivers along the way. Whilst I personally didn't use tuktuks often as they are more expensive and less reliable than taxis, the drivers were always friendly and helpful when I pointed at my map and asked how I could walk there. They'll always try to get you to take the ride, but just stick to your legs if that's how you want to go and be assertive with a smile!

Err, OK! Night Fishing in Koh Chang

"Err, OK!" - KBG brain, regularly.

The clock was ticking and I was err-ing. As with many life decisions where I need a little shove, I messaged my sister P and sought her advice:

K: Sup.

P: Sup.

K: Thinking fishing trip.

P: Do it, sounds insane.

K: Cool.

P: Cool.

I tend to lean towards things which are slightly ridiculous, and which I am slightly ridiculous in doing.

Backpacker friendly things to do on Koh Chang

7 hours east of Bangkok, Koh Chang strikes a cracking balance of cheap prices and good quality infrastructure. It's just as easy to do nothing as it is to do everything, making this island a great escape from Bangkok or a divine stopover on the overland journey between Thailand and Cambodia. Here's my backpacking guide for Koh Chang!

Sports 

Snorkelling - buy your own kit/ borrow from your hostel, and head out into the sea or start island hopping! Koh Chang boasts some of the best visible bioluminescent plankton in Thailand, so make sure to grab your GoPro and some buddies and snorkel in the dark. 

Kayaking - a great alternative to using a motorboat for island hopping, kayaking provides legitimate exercise to the twitchy ones and much more flexibility for how long you spend out and about. Kayaks can be rented all over the island and prices are based on 100 baht per kayak per hour, with discounts for half day and whole day rents. Best way to do this is to grab 2 friends and share a 3 seat kayak so the cost is even lower, and you can spread the legwork! 

Diving - Koh Chang is renowned for being one of the best places in South East Asia to go diving, with a couple of shipwrecks to explore at different depths to handily cater for all abilities.

Pajamas, Koh Chang - hostel review

Pajamas is relatively flashpacker at £11 per night, but it's definitely over and above in quality and fun! 

Location 5/5

AWESOME. Klong Prao beach is between the northern white sands beach (very family and touristy) and lonely beach (backpacker central and parties 24/7), providing access to the best  of both. Lonely beach parties are incredible, but for me it was definitely best to choose to go to and then leave when I'd had enough! Whilst there are LOTS of very cheap hostels on lonely beach, you can never leave the party and the partygoers. Klong Prao is still pretty undeveloped and so whilst there are some nice bars and restaurants, it's definitely a lot more chilled than other options on the island but still offers great facilities. 

Arriving in Koh Chang

Escape from Bangkok

After a glorious week running around Bangkok, even I had to grab a map and see where I could escape to. Most people head north towards Chiang Mai and Chang Rai PDQ after Bangkok for the cooler temperatures, slower pace of life, and more local feel in general. Given I'm heading that way at the end of February for my pitifully planned dates but super awesome elephant conservation project, I decided to look around the south. I considered Phuket and the glorious tales of island hopping around the southern prong of Thailand, but for me that's something I'd like to do with pals/partner/suitcase rather than on my Larry. So the eastern seaboard it was then and, with the idea of a beach and some jungle in mind, I was searching off the coast. Koh Samui is a very popular island, but when I looked at Koh Chang it was like finding an extra love heart in the corner of a seemingly empty Haribo packet. Lush!

Backpacking Bangkok - treats, traps and tips!

Thailand offers an incredible combination of good quality and exceptional prices, making it a wonderful playground for an explorer on a budget or a top dog seeking luxury. Here are some of my lessons from Bangkok!

Treats

Thais love their food spicy, fried, and/or very sweet! Bland and meek have no place here, and vegetarians will learn to shout "NO MEAT!" when a hand is hovering over the chicken. Tofu is also available, but the carnivorous amongst us will be loving life in Bangkok. 

Street food will invariably beat restaurant food on taste, price, and authenticity. Meat on a stick beats meat on a plate, hands down! Head to Khao San Road around 3pm to hit the majority of street food stalls offering various dishes for 30-60 baht, and then pick an alleyway the the connecting warren of streets surrounding it to get more adventurous tastes.

One Week in Bangkok

Resisting the temptation to belt out Pet Shop Boys whenever I hear "one [X] in Bangkok" has been strenuous. AND THE WORLD'S YOUR OYSTER! There, it's done, it's out. 

Many people do Bangkok in 1-3 days, but I stayed for a whole week! Here's what I got up to:

Day 1: Exploring street food and markets in Siam Square

Having landed after 24 hours of travelling, food was of course the first thing on my mind! Cue a trip to the Siam Square Happy Street festival full of food and clothes!

 

No filter, just lush.

January 13, 2016

Bangkok street food - a lasting love!

Most people cover Bangkok within 1-3 days before escaping to other areas of Thailand. I stayed for a whole week and, apart from my love for all the Wats, it was down to the food. Thai food is completely different to anything I've ever had before, essentially mastering the art of taking a very healthy dish, deep frying it, and creating a heavenly bundle of light tasting deliciousnessosity. Here are some of my highlights! 

My first dish in Thailand was from a magnificent street market in Siam Square. Deep fried chicken and veg on sweet toast opened the door to an absolute winner winner of a chicken dinner. I also cracked open my first ever fresh coconut and, whilst impressive and idyllic, it turns out that I don't like coconut milk. Regardless, the look of them can't be faulted!

LOOK AT THAT BOWL OF CHILLI SAUCE. MY EYES ARE BURNING FROM HERE.

Jade's House, Bangkok - Hostel Review

A simple but comfortable hostel in the heart of Bangkok - ideal for those wanting to explore Khao San area without having to stay on Khao San Road itself.

Location 5/5
Just great. 5 mins walk from Khao San Road and the major attractions up there, 15 mins walk to Dusit Palace, 30 mins walk to Wat Pho and the Grand Palace or a taxi for 60-80 baht on the meter. Lots of great street food around as well as chilled out bars and excellent restaurants too! Also next door to Peterpans (travel agency) which arrange excellent tours or transport and pick up/drop off just next door. Ideal. Bar and restaurant just underneath which is great for a "get to know you" Chang, and isn't loud into the night.

Panda Hostel, Bangkok - Hostel Review

I found the Panda Hostel on booking.com when I wanted to move closer to Khaosan district for the Wats (temples) and to try a different area to Siam Square. Whilst booking.com rates it as "8.2 excellent", I had a very different experience...

Location 5/5
Undeniably fab. 5 mins walk from Khao San Road so you get all the fun and also get to leave! Lots of hostels next door for more socialising on the patio area, lots of chill bars and massage and laundry places close by, and a 7eleven and multiple ATMs 50m away. All the taxi drivers know the road and there are lots of busses too if you fancy going local. Taxi from Wat Pho to Panda Hostel will cost around 60-80 baht and takes 10-15 mins, bus is much cheaper but slightly longer, and a Tuk Tuk won't go for under 150 baht.

Lub-D Siam Square - Hostel Review

Lub-D is an excellent transition hostel if you're coming from the airport with the aim to explore KhaoSan area later on, or a great place to stay if you want to be out of backpacker central but still with excellent access to the goodies.

Location 4/5
Directly next to the SkyWalk for the SkyTrain to get you absolutely anywhere in Bangkok! Perfect. Also in the heart of the shopping district (Siam Square) for all you glampackers, and a beautifully calm and quiet area to decompress after a long flight before throwing yourself into Bangkok life. Massage 5 mins walk away, Khao San road 45 mins walk or 10-15 mins taxi (around 80-100 Baht on the meter), and Wat Pho around the same. Jim Thompson house just behind the hostel and Erawan Shrine is just a simple walk away! 7Eleven exactly next door solves all your midnight muchies and forgotten possessions.

Impulsive Fishing!

Today's impulse decision: night fishing trip with a load of Thai fishermen off the coast of Koh Chang! 5 yellow bait fish and a barracuda later and I am very happy with my first ever fishing trip!

Post is coming - I promise!

January 11, 2016 at 12:56AM

Find the Face(s)!

Touch of Dali in this shot at the UNESCO World Heritage site in Ayutthaya! How many faces can you find in the rubble?

January 09, 2016 at 12:28AM

Ayutthaya Day Trip From Bangkok - Architectural Paradise!

7am and I'm waiting for the minibus to pick me up and whisk me off to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, boasting some of the oldest Siam temples. Ayutthaya was the second of four capitals of Thailand, with the capital moving when wars were won and lost or environmental changes made the current location unsustainable. It's the architectural capital of Thailand and most famously hosts the beautiful Buddha in the Tree, and the original reclining Buddha temple.

There are so many ways to do Ayutthaya for all levels of comfort, budget, and interest! 

Getting there 

If you're on a budget then you can get to Ayutthaya on the train for 20 baht (less than 50p) which is awesome. This would definitely come under the "experience" bracket though, as that ticket is for a 3rd class, non air-conditioned carriage and no guaranteed seat for 2.5 hours. Upwards of this, there are more comfortable options on the train, public busses, and minivans which leave central city locations frequently and for under 550 baht (around 11 GBP). The alternative is to book through a travel agency locally or online, which is usually a bit more expensive but there's some sense of organisation. All have their pros and cons - train is the most scenically pleasing and cheapest option for shoestring travellers, but having a guide for the temples and an organised day plan may be more suitable for a backpacking treat.

Buddha's Head in a Tree - Ayutthaya

After years of war left Thais in Ayutthaya in bad places, some took to beheading images of the Buddha to sell on for money. Story goes that the authorities caught one person in the act and they placed the head on the ground where it was left for many years. Over this time a tree grew around the head, which is taken by many Buddhists as a symbol of the symbiotic relationship between Buddhists and nature. As the Buddha supports nature in His teachings, the tree supports the Buddha and now the local community too.

January 08, 2016 at 06:29PM

When someone says "just work with what you've got"

Ayutthaya, the architectural prototype and second capital city of Thailand (Bangkok being the fourth!). Some of the most famous images of Thailand are of several Buddha images in a row, usually painted gold and sitting or standing complete. Here in Ayutthaya we have the same imagery, but the Buddha images are of stone and almost all are damaged if not destroyed.

January 08, 2016 at 06:12PM

Wat Pho

Cooking With Pon! Green Garden (Hot Pot) Cooking School, Bangkok

How do you like your chillies in the morning?

Thai cooking courses are rated as some of the best experiences you can get whilst exploring Thailand, and something not to be missed if you're a foodie or a host. I did a lot of research into different cooking courses and, in my opinion, it doesn't get much better than Green Garden (previously known as Hot Pot) Cooking School! A lot of schools recommended widely cost the same or more, but only offer 3-4 dishes - today I cooked and ate 10 over 5 hours and loved every second of it!

I turned up at 8.50 for a 9.00 start and was picked up by my teacher Pon on a Tuk Tuk and taken straight to the market to get fresh ingredients for cooking! I was joined by another girl from Bangladesh and we moved through the market as Pon described all the different foods and what they're used for in Thai cooking, what they go with, and how they're different to foods we knew - for example, Thai eggplant looks like a courgette rather than the purple lightbulb I'm used to! Fresh food markets in Bangkok run from 0400 - 0930ish and then they're changed over to thing stalls or cooked food stalls. Very surreal to see the end of Khao San Road full of lettuce and eggs rather than fisherman trousers and hair braids! 

Bossing the groceries 

Flowers at Wat Pho

January 07, 2016 at 07:21PM

Cooking at Green Garden today!

Making the magic happen in my Thai cooking course today!

January 07, 2016 at 06:05PM

First days travelling Bangkok solo

It's like going to a sweetie shop on your birthday as a young child and being told you may have whatever you fancy - a weird combination of ballsy confidence whilst also being almost intimidated by the freedom. There is so much to do and to see but where to start?! 

For me, it's been a series of challenges that have hit faster than the Golden Ball stage of Takeshi's Castle, and I'm not an Imperial Guard.

Travelling solo for me is a tricky balance between independence vs loneliness. Hostels are great for meeting people, but that's a tricky step to take for me at least. I'm not a person to bust into a group of people and just have to open with "Hello!" followed by the travel equivalent of Fresher's Week pleaseconversewithmequiz: 

• Where are you from? Swap with fun fact which is invariably "Oh cool! I went to/really want to go to [their country]!"
• What's your name? Swap and nod awkwardly
• How long have you been in [current location]? Swap, invariably followed by more nodding 

Wat Arun

January 06, 2016 at 11:41PM

Wat Arun

Sunset at Wat Arun 🌞 Just after this photo I met a lovely girl from Finland and we had a beer on the other side of the river watching the sun go down - great way to spend the afternoon!

January 06, 2016 at 09:24PM

Arriving in Bangkok

Having sneezed off all my mascara to Aladdin and sideways watching a Bollywood version of Pitch Perfect courtesy of Mr 32E, my intermittently crippling fear of planes crashing in water subsided and my nerves calmed as Dairylea triangles came onto the scene. GG, Oman Air. 

Layover in Muscat greatly improved by Bedouin style tent in which to crash

Ground rush

T- 1 hour

Sitting in Heathrow departures quietly dripping overly expensive mascara into not-so-fresh apple juice. Slowly realising that the people around me are playing "guess the circumstance" and the odds are going towards potential convict escaping the country to begin new life as one of those fitness instructors you look at and think 'really...?'. 

It's ok. I'm prepared. Chocolate orange smashed and ready dans le sac. Nailing it.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

T- 12 months 

Errrrrmagherd mega trip after my degree I'm going to go EVERYWHAAAAR and do EVERYTHAAAAANG. Totes going to book everything today.

T- 9 months 

Omg huge trip can't wait. Definitely going to book things today. 

T- 8 months 

Yeeeeesssss trip is going to be ace, absolutely booking flights right now!

T- 7 months 

Holla, graduation complete, let's start working and get the dolla. Trip is HAPPENING. 

T- 6 months

Ok, today is the day (the day that mum told me to man up and get things booked). SUCCESS, COMPETENCY, I AM SO INDEPENDENT AND GROWN UP AND PREPARED, I WENT TO STA. 

Ok so I sat in a chair and said I liked things and the glorious Owen of STA put it together as I nodded along. Flights in the bag, leaving late January 2016 and coasting through South East Asia, Australasia, and popping into South America and Canada. BOOM.

T- 5.5 months

Owen: "Hey Kirstie, just to let you know, your first flight is actually the same price on New Year's Day and then you could get 3 weeks more out of your trip?"

Kirstie: "YEHUH LET'S DO IT SURE THING WHY NOT WAHOO!"

T- 5.5 months - T- 1 month

Totes sorted, all good, bossed it. 9 countries in 6 months no problemo. Going solo so I can do everything I want exactly how I want. All over it. Going hand luggage and all - who has time to waste at luggage carousels?! Thailand, Cambodia, Borneo, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Peru, Canada YESSSSS. Elephants, Macchu Picchu, scuba diving, the lot. Sank £80 on all the lonely planet books, totally sorted. Bought jazzy leggings. Look at me all competent and fancy.

Should probably get a new bikini. Top priority. 

T- 3 weeks 

I'm definitely going checked luggage. Turns out crossing 5 extreme climates with 1 rucksack was not the best planning in the world. Doesn't matter, still got 2 months to plan and get sorted.

T- 2 weeks

WAHEY CHRISTMAS!! Super excited for my trip. I've even put flip flops and t shirts in a pile and everything. I'm so prepared. I've got 6 weeks and I'm already packing. So on this. 

T- 10 days 

I changed the flight. I changed the goddamn flight. I HAVE 10 DAYS. I should start prep tomorrow. It'll be fine. It's meant to be spontaneous and all.

T- 1 week

According to lonely planet, women can't touch or walk on the same path as monks in Thailand. I didn't know that. What if I'm looking at things and accidentally wander onto the path of a rogue monk? What if other countries have similar customs? OH MY GOD I KNOW NOTHING AND I AM SNOWED UNDER WITH OUTSTANDING PREPARATIONS AND I AM SCARED AND I DO NOT KNOW WHAT I AM DOING AAAAAAH.

It's fine, it'll be fine. I've travelled before, I'm good. It's all fine.

T- 4 days

Bugger. Checked STA itinerary and all my flights within Asia aren't there. What?! Owen must have cocked up. That's ridiculous. What?! Going to ring him and sort it out. Boo. 

Kirstie: "Hi Owen, slightly panicking, it looks like my itinerary is wrong? There are no flights in Asia showing... I'm definitely sure we booked them together in store???" 

Owen: "Oh, really? Let me check your file... Oh, it says you were going to book the, yourself through Air Asia? More flexibility and lower rates? Yeah it was noted on your account yeah"

... Bollocks. 

OH MY GOD I LEAVE IN 4 DAYS AND I HAVE NO FLIGHTS OH MY GOD WHAT AM I DOI THIS IS TERRIFYING AND I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING THERE ARE SO MANY FLIGHTS AND SO MANY TIMESCALES AH THIS IS SO CONFUSING I AM GOING TO COMBUST.

3 hours later

All flights booked. Hostels for first nights booked. Baggage allowance checked. Timeline sorted. Brain frazzled. Mum frazzled. Trying to maintain that I definitely completed this task and definitely did not growl at Mum as she compensated my incompetency with skill and fixed my self-made mess again. 

Ah well, nailed that. Sorted. It'll all be fine. Doesn't feel like I'm going this weekend.

T- 2 days 

OH MY GOD I HAVE NOT PACKED WHAT AM I GOING TO DO I CANNOT COPE.

HOW CAN I PACK FOR FIVE EXTREME CLIMATES IN ONE BAG???

WHO'S STUPID IDEA WAS THAT???

7 hours later

Ok. It's ok. Have packed all the things Santa and Mum kindly gave me for Christmas. Have left out flip flops and t shirt I set aside months ago. Am incompetent and frazzled. Bodes well for trip. 

T- 1 day

Ho hum. All sorted. Except cash. Will get at airport. And phone. Will sort in country. And life. Hmm. 

Between Major Panic and General Stress I've got the entire goddamn military covered. 

T- 3 hours

In Heathrow about to go through security. Teary goodbye to family and boyfriend. After 12 months of talking the talk, it's time to walk the walk. Geronimo!